The insider advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Sri Lanka: Miguel Cunat of Sri Lanka In Style.
Miguel, who has been living with his family in Sri Lanka since 2003, founded his boutique travel company to provide visitors with insightful, engaging experiences in this logistically tricky but enchanting country. He plans tailor-made itineraries for travelers from around the world, designing each one based on the company philosophy of “traveling in style.” For Miguel that means getting off the beaten path without sacrificing comfort or charm, and meeting the colorful local characters who provide a real sense of place (authors, architects, even the Leopard Man). His goal is for his travelers to return from their trip “feeling rested, relaxed and pampered, if that’s what you seek, but also fulfilled and inspired.” Having watched Sri Lanka undergo so many changes in the past two decades, Miguel is deeply committed to conservation and is certified in Sustainable Tourism by the Global Sustainable Tourism Council; this brings to bear in every recommendation he makes, from the hotels he chooses to the strategies he employs for keeping his travelers far from the tour-bus crowd.
Best bang-for-your-buck hotel Perched high above the emerald valleys of Ella, the brand-new Uga Ghiri is an intimate hill-country retreat. Set within the historic Sutherland Estate—a beautifully restored colonial manor—this all-villa sanctuary offers breathtaking views of rolling tea plantations, mist-covered mountains, and the iconic Nine Arch Bridge. Nearby activities include scenic hikes, tea experiences, wellness rituals, and curated cultural encounters.
Relax after a day of touring with a soak in your villa’s private Jacuzzi. Photo: Uga Ghiri
Restaurants the locals love In Colombo, GINI is redefining local cuisine while using exclusively Sri Lankan ingredients, with every dish paying homage to the island’s rich culinary heritage. It’s loved by locals for its unpretentious charm, the smoky flavors of its open-fire cooking methods and generous use of local spices, and a warm, communal setting that feels like a gathering of friends.
In Galle Fort, Charlie’s Bar & Bistro is where locals go for laid-back sophistication with a Sri Lankan twist, and to enjoy its warm, welcoming vibe and a menu that blends island flavors and global favorites. Expect locally inspired small plates, fresh seafood, and bold cocktails served in a relaxed setting.
Dish to try Hoppers, known locally as appa , are bowl-shaped Sri Lankan pancakes made from a fermented batter of rice flour and coconut milk. Cooked in a small, wok-like pan, they develop a crisp, lacy rim and a soft, spongy center. A beloved street-food staple, hoppers are served for breakfast or dinner with spicy sambols or curries, symbolizing Sri Lanka’s vibrant culinary identity.
Shellfish is on the menu at Ministry of Crab. Photo: Sri Lanka In Style
Meal worth the splurge Ministry of Crab in Colombo. Sri Lankan lagoon crab has always been a delicacy exported to Singapore, Malaysia, and other parts of Asia. A few years back, celebrity cricketers Mahela Jayawardene and Kumar Sangakkara and fellow foodie Dharshan Munidase opened the Ministry of Crab, a lively restaurant situated within the old Dutch Hospital, a 17th-century building recently restored in the heart of Colombo. Try the chili-garlic crab and the butter soy prawns—possibly the best prawns ever.
Don’t miss The 22-day, 185-mile Pekoe Trail is a new, contiguous hiking route through Sri Lanka’s tea country. Miguel spent the better part of ten years developing this trail; if you don’t have time to trek the entire thing, he can weave a section or two into your trip. Created to encourage the preservation of the diverse cultural and natural heritage of tea country, this epic trail crosses over seven valleys, many tea plantations, and some of Sri Lanka’s most stunning mountain terrain, including spectacular waterfalls where in ancient times lovers leapt to their deaths and gold was hidden under giant boulders. The Pekoe Trail also connects many culturally interesting spots, from important hill-station towns to villages with long-running festive traditions, and from colonial train stations to tea museums telling the human story of the region.
A tea picker on Sri Lanka’s Pekoe Trail. Photo: Timothy Baker
Seeing Sri Lanka from the sea. While most visitors experience the island by road, Sri Lanka’s story has always been shaped by the Indian Ocean. For centuries, sailors, cinnamon traders, pearl merchants, fishermen, and explorers navigated these waters, connecting the island to distant cultures and kingdoms. A voyage along Sri Lanka’s historic Cinnamon Coast offers a different perspective on the country. Cruise past traditional fishing villages, mangrove-fringed lagoons rich in birdlife, secluded beaches, and the occasional shipwreck that hints at centuries of maritime trade. Depending on the season, you may encounter dolphins, whales, sea turtles, and flying fish, while local communities continue traditions that have changed little over generations. Spending a night aboard a catamaran, anchored in a quiet bay beneath a canopy of stars, reveals a side of Sri Lanka that few travelers discover.
Don’t bother Established in 1972, the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage began with noble intentions—to care for orphaned and injured elephants affected by habitat loss, land development, and the country’s civil conflict. Over time, however, it has become a major tourist attraction. Today, the experience here often involves large crowds gathered to watch scheduled feedings and bathing sessions, raising concerns about the welfare of the animals and the authenticity of the encounters.
Sri Lanka’s southern coast is home to remarkable sea turtle populations—but many turtle hatcheries prioritize tourism over true conservation. For a more meaningful and ethical experience, head to Rekawa Beach, where local conservationists guide small groups to observe turtles nesting in the wild. No tanks, no crowds—just you, the stars, and one of nature’s most moving rituals.
Most underrated place Kumana National Park , located on Sri Lanka’s southeast coast, is often described as Yala’s quieter, wilder cousin: It offers many of the same wildlife experiences—leopards, elephants, sloth bears, crocodiles, and an abundance of birdlife—but with far fewer vehicles and visitors. What makes Kumana special is its sense of remoteness. The park’s lagoons, wetlands, and ancient forest create a very different atmosphere from the busier safari circuits. It is particularly famous among birdwatchers, with the Kumana Villu wetland attracting thousands of migratory and resident birds each year.
Best for thrill-seekers A pre-dawn climb to Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada). The trek involves ascending more than 5,500 steps, but the breathtaking sunrise above mist-covered valleys is well worth it. A sacred site across multiple faiths, Adam’s Peak is believed to hold the footprint of Buddha, Shiva, or Adam.
Canyoning on the Kelani River. The river, which runs west from the central highlands to Colombo, has a densely forested section called Kitulgala that’s ideal for rafting and canyoning. Laxapana Falls, one of Sri Lanka’s highest and most spectacular waterfalls, is also found on the river, and there are a few truly amazing hidden gorges to rappel, jump, and slide down. (Film buffs might also recognize Kitulgala as the location of the 1957 film Bridge Over the River Kwai) .
Bragging rights Depending on your interests, Miguel can arrange bespoke encounters with a fascinating array of local personalities . Share a cup of freshly brewed Ceylon tea with a veteran planter in the hill country, gain unique insights into Sri Lanka’s wildlife from a renowned naturalist on safari, or explore the country’s rich cultural heritage alongside an archaeologist or historian. Whether your passion lies in architecture, photography, cuisine, literature, or conservation, these exclusive meetings offer a deeper and more personal understanding of Sri Lanka beyond the traditional tourist trail.
Instagram moments The Nanu Oya to Ella train ride is more than just transport. Picture this: windows wide open, the wind in your hair, and sweeping views of tea-cloaked hills, mist-laced forests, and locals waving from colorful villages. Every curve of the track reveals a new, frame-worthy scene, whether it’s the train hugging a cliffside or golden light spilling over valleys.
Take a scenic train ride through Sri Lanka’s tea plantations. Photo: Sri Lanka In Style
Sigiriya might steal the headlines, but those in the know hike up nearby Pidurangala Rock for a crowd-free, soul-stirring view—especially at sunset. While the climb is slightly rugged near the top (expect a bit of scrambling), the reward is immense: a panoramic view of the iconic Sigiriya Rock bathed in golden light, and hardly a soul around.
How to spend a Sunday Start your Sunday at Good Market , where you’ll find organic produce, sustainable fashion, and handmade crafts by local entrepreneurs. It’s the perfect place to grab a fresh smoothie, browse artisanal goods, and soak in the community atmosphere.
Next, take a leisurely stroll down Park Street Mews , a chic alleyway lined with cafés, restaurants, and art galleries. For lunch, head to Café Kumbuk , known for its healthy fusion cuisine with a Sri Lankan twist.
In the afternoon, explore Sri Lanka’s contemporary art scene at Barefoot Gallery (see “Where to Shop”), where you’ll find thought-provoking exhibitions, a curated bookshop, and a laid-back courtyard café.
End your day with sunset drinks by the sea at the iconic Galle Face Hotel . Overlooking the Indian Ocean, it’s the perfect spot to sip a cocktail, watch the sky turn gold, and enjoy Colombo’s historic seafront.
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The last two weeks of January and the first two weeks of March. February is a very good month, but, alas, a busy one, with plenty of people coming to Sri Lanka on half-term or over the Chinese New Year from Singapore, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Dubai, and other parts of Asia. The weather in January is delightful—springlike temperatures and blue skies. As the weeks roll by, temperatures begin to rise, peaking in April.
The worst time to go is anyone’s guess, because it’s simply impossible to predict the weather. There are usually two or three weeks a year—anytime between May and December—when torrential rains fall, occasionally flooding roads and provoking landslides.
Late December, February, and the first two weeks of August are the busiest periods. But Sri Lanka is not a mass-tourism destination, so as long as you book early—to make sure you’re in the right hotels and are assured an excellent guide—and plan your days with a view to avoiding certain hot spots at critical times, you’ll be fine. If you’re booking last-minute, think twice: You may have to settle for second best.
Sri Lanka looks small on a map, but it can take hours to get from place to place , and there are definite no-nos. For instance, don’t try to travel from Kandy to Yala National Park in one day, or from the Cultural Triangle to the beaches of Tangalle, or from Jaffna to Colombo. On Google Maps, distances and approximate travel times are misleading. Sri Lanka offers great diversity and looks like you can tick all the boxes in one week—you can’t. If you want to speed things up a little, try flying on certain segments. Two local operators, Cinnamon Air and Daya Aviation, offer scheduled flights around the country.
Sri Lanka has fabulous sapphires and many other precious stones, but like most places, you have to be very careful that you don’t overpay or wind up with a fake. Be mindful of guides who insist you visit a gem shop (which often happens with cheaper tours but is strictly forbidden on Miguel’s trips). Always purchase gems from a reputable dealer licensed by the National Gem and Jewellery Authority and ensure you receive a certificate and a money-back guarantee. Miguel can provide a list of recommended and licensed shops. The National Gem and Jewellery Authority in Colombo will also appraise gems free of charge in various locations around the country and help determine the value.
YAMU is a locally produced Colombo City guide with up-to-date news and special offers from local restaurants.
Most Sri Lankans have WhatsApp , including guides and chauffeur-guides. Miguel can create a WhatsApp group for your trip to easily connect you with guides and office staff.
Uber is an efficient way to get a ride in Colombo.
U.S. citizens must have a visa to enter Sri Lanka, but are now eligible to obtain a 30-day tourist visa (ETA) free of charge. You can apply for one online .
Selyn , Sri Lanka’s only fair trade-certified handloom company, collaborates with traditional weaving communities to create beautifully crafted sarongs, scarves, and home textiles, all made from 100% cotton and reflecting the dedication and skill of local artisans.
Barefoot , founded in 1958 by artist and designer Barbara Sansoni, is also renowned for its handwoven clothing, bags, and home décor items characterized by bold colors and contemporary designs.
At hotels, ask for the “tip box” when checking out . You need not feel awkward when the bellboy brings the luggage, simply say thank you and mention you will leave a tip in the tip box at the end of your stay. A good tip is $10 to $20 per room per day.
Something to cover your arms when visiting temples. (You need to cover your knees as well, but you can easily buy a cheap sarong for that in Sri Lanka.) Don’t bring t-shirts with images of Buddha, and if you have a Buddha tattoo, never show it.
I’m not a travel agent—I’m a journalist who has spent the past 30 years reporting on how to travel smarter. To maximize your experience, click to Ask Wendy for a personalized recommendation for trip ideas and custom-trip designers, tailored to your location and preferences. We may receive a referral fee from trip planners for trips designed for and purchased by travelers referred through us.
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