Few visitors to Sri Lanka venture as far as Jaffna, on the island’s northern tip. Even fewer make it to Delft Island, around 30 kilometres off the coast. Also known as Neduntheevu in Tamil or Neduntivu in Sinhala, this 11-kilometre-long, six-kilometre-wide strip of land is Sri Lanka’s most remote inhabited island , home to roughly 600 Tamil residents, many of whom have lived here for generations. With its remoteness comes a sleepier pace of life than that on the mainland. The handful of tarmacked roads – the largest of which, Maveli Periyathurai Road, connects the island to the ferry port – are lined with colourful houses, many with verandas, from which people offer friendly smiles, while a handful of shops sell fruit and vegetables from wooden storefronts. Most other "roads" are sandy, coconut-husk-strewn trails winding through towering palm groves, where the most traffic you’re likely to encounter is a few gentle cows making their rounds.
Locals sell fruit and vegetables on Sri Lanka's Delft Island
Delft’s history is one of colonisation, with the Portuguese and Dutch making this a strategic outpost in the 16th century, before the arrival of the British in 1795. A handful of buildings strewn across the island bear witness to their influence, but for the most part, Delft has remained untouched, attracting just a handful of curious travellers who make the notoriously choppy, hour-long ferry ride from Kurikadduwan Harbour. Those who do, however, are treated to true escapism, with rustic coastlines, untamed nature and a taste of island living. Here are some of the best things to see and do on Delft Island.
To the north of the island, near the ferry's docking point, is Delft beach – a sleepy, sandy stretch ideal for lounging and watching the sunset . The island is characterised by shallow, coral-filled waters, and this particular stretch of coast is the best for swimming, protected by a sheltered bay that shields it from winds. This is the island’s only sandy beach, with the rest marred by rocky, coral-strewn terrain. It should be noted there are no facilities, save for a few shacks used as shelter for fishermen's boats, so be sure to bring plenty of water to stay hydrated in the tropical heat.
During Dutch rule, which was centralised in Jaffna, Delft was used as a breeding ground for ponies and horses, introducing species that were not native to the island. While the crumbling remnants of stables have been left exposed to the elements, horses have been left to run wild. The island now acts as a sanctuary for the protected species, which can often be spotted roaming freely on the eastern side, seemingly the sole inhabitants of much of the land.
Elsewhere, an imposing baobab tree, introduced to the island in the 16th century by Arab merchants, stands as a stark reminder of Delft’s unique history. Native to Africa , this large tropical tree contrasts sharply with the surrounding Palmyra trees and has become a central part of the island’s identity. Found in a small clearing on the eastern side of the island, it now acts as a gathering place for locals, many of whom seek shade from the midday heat beneath its towering, intertwined branches.
Much like the island itself, food here is distinctly local, served without frills but full of heart. Follow your nose to Kathir Restaurant on Maveli Periyathurai Road, where a daily selection of “short eats” are displayed proudly in the window. Be sure to arrived early though, the selection of samosas, filled rolls and lentil patties don’t last long. For something a little more hearty, order a freshly-baked paratha to mop up the remnants of the day’s special curry.
Elsewhere, Island Hut is the place to go for fresh fish. Enjoy fragrant curries made using the days’ catch as you watch the world go by from the side of the island’s jetty. While the island may not be brimming with restaurants, there are several guesthouses run by friendly hosts who are more than happy to accommodate meals for visitors and showcase Sri Lanka’s famous hospitality.
One of the few remaining buildings pointing to Delft’s colonial past is the old Dutch Hospital. Dating back to the 16th century, this one-storey structure was first used for medical purposes, before being converted into an administrative building during British rule. During Sri Lanka’s 26-year civil war, which ended in 2009, the Tamil Tiger militia group, seeking to establish an independent Tamil state in the north, used the Dutch Hospital as a medical facility for several years. Since then, it’s stood empty as one of the best-preserved examples of Dutch architecture on the island, with its thick walls, red-tiled roof and wide verandas. Inside, it’s still possible to spot a British emblem inscribed on the wall.
Close to the Old Dutch Hospital stands another colonial structure, the Pigeon Nest that also dates back to Dutch rule. This stone pillar, pitted with 70 holes, was used to house pigeons, which carried messages between Delft Island and Jaffna , a practice that continued through the British colonial period.
Perhaps the island's most significant landmark, however, is the Portuguese or Meekanam Fort. Originally constructed during Portuguese rule using limestone and coral, the two-storey structure was later reinforced by the Dutch. In its heyday, the fort was a symbol of colonial power and strength, but today it lies in ruins. However, its stacked rock formations hint at the outline of the turret that once sat on its left side, though weathering has reduced it to a skeleton of its former grandeur.
For those who looking to extend a day trip , there are a handful of no-frills accommodation options on Delft Island. Perhaps most popular is family-run camping retreat, Delft Island Village Stay, where five tents, under traditional thatched roofs, sit within a secluded palm grove. Each comes with a bed, wi-fi, fan, shared bathroom and private outdoor area and seating, from which to enjoy the early morning soundtrack of birds and rustling palms. Meals are lovingly prepared by host Mary Emalda, who makes the tastiest spicy crab curry and sautéed okra on the island.
Just along the beach, Delft Beach Front Villas offers a similarly rustic experience. Thatched two-storey huts sit right on the shoreline, from which you can enjoy the glorious sunshine from the comfort of your bed before making your way down to the hammock below, from which you can watch the morning unfold. Elsewhere, Delft Samudra Hotel is less than five minutes from the ferry’s docking point on the island’s main road. Here, simple adjoining white villas, housing comfortable beds and all-important air conditioning, are arranged around a central courtyard.
The ferry from the mainland runs three times a day
Delft is accessible via a ferry from Kurikadduwan Harbour, which is about an hour’s bus ride from Jaffna. Ferries depart three times daily. If you're visiting for a day trip, the best way to explore the island is by tuk-tuk; drivers wait at the port, ready to take visitors on a four-hour tour of the island's sights. For those planning to stay overnight, renting a bike is highly recommended, allowing exploration of the island's sandy paths at a slower pace.
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