When you picture Sri Lanka, palm-fringed beaches inevitably spring to mind, along with wildlife safaris in search of elusive leopards , birdwatching opportunities, and the faded Dutch forts of Galle, Mannar and Matara. Then there are the ancient temples of Polonnaruwa, Anuradhapura and Kandy, where multiple faiths have left their mark.
But kitesurfing? That’s less likely to make the list. Unless, of course, you’re already au fait with the world’s most exhilarating watersports destinations, in which case you may know that one of them lies on a slender peninsula in northern Sri Lanka, some six hours south of Jaffna .
Home also to salt pans, vast coconut plantations, plenty of roaming goat herds and wild donkeys, this less-frequented part of the country is photogenic, too. Here’s how to make the most of the region, and everything you need to know about its vibrant kitesurfing scene.
Kalpitiya in the Puttalam district of Sri Lanka is undoubtedly the best place to learn to kitesurf on the island, thanks to the area's near-perfect conditions: flat water, stable wind and warm weather, all of which appeal to travellers and locals. The region, which consists of a slim peninsula hugged by the ocean to one side and an expansive lagoon on the other, is also scattered with inlets and islands , and is just a short boat ride from Sri Lanka’s largest national park, Wilpattu.
Having grown up in a small village right at the Kappalady lagoon, Mawfeer Khan, kiteschool owner of Kite Buddies , believes the area boasts the “perfect conditions for beginners but also for advanced riders hoping to land their tricks”. Having got into kitesurfing about 20 years ago, “when the first tourists arrived with these huge parachutes”, local kids, himself included, “were super interested and started building kites out of rice bags”. It didn’t take long before the foreigners started teaching him and a few other local boys how to kitesurf and he hasn’t stopped since. Today, he teaches at Kite Buddies on the edge of Kappalady Lagoon. It’s just one of the many well-run kiteschools found in this peaceful pocket of Sri Lanka .
According to Sri Lankan local Thakeisha De Silva, who’s been kitesurfing for around seven years, it’s all about the right instructors. “Having good coaching from the beginning makes all the difference, not only for your safety but also for building confidence and progressing faster,” she says.
Beginners don’t need to invest in equipment or bring it with them; everything is available to hire from schools operating in the area, with experienced instructors and guides on hand throughout. At Kite Buddies, Khan offers a range of packages from two-hour private lessons to nine-hour beginner courses. To really get to grips with the sport, however, he recommends a two-week kitesurfing holiday so beginners can progress to a point where they are truly “independent and confident”.
Schools in the region typically provide all the necessary equipment, including kites, boards and harnesses, on a rental basis, meaning eager learners simply have to turn up, choose their preferred school and pay attention.
Dilsiri Welikala, co-creator of Kitesurfing Lanka , advises that there are two key kitesurfing seasons: the first when “the trade winds blow from May to October , and the second [that] comes with the northeast wind that blows from December to March. We have extremely stable winds in Kalpitiya, which is why it’s a world-class kitesurfing destination,” he says, adding that the region is also prone to the “Venturi effect”, a natural weather phenomenon that creates steady and reliable wind conditions.
The area's unique ecosystem also has its own microclimate, and Kalpitiya does not get very much rain despite being on the west coast of the island, says Welikala. “In fact, we just get the wind, so it’s really amazing that around three hours from Colombo or two hours from the International Airport, you have this very sunny, windy place.”
Welikala credits his knowledge and passion for kitesurfing to a Swiss national, Mischi Walter, one of the first kitesurfing instructors in Kalpitiya. Having brought kitesurfing to Welikala’s attention 15 years ago, he later quit his corporate job and set up Kitesurfing Lanka, with Walter still very much part and parcel of the business today.
The area feels unlike anywhere else in the country and is well worth adding to your Sri Lankan itinerary, even if you’re not planning on kitesurfing . Hot and breezy, rustling coconut palms spread out in all directions, with huge plantations taking up much of the interior, while glimmering salt pans can be seen from the main road leading directly to Kalpitiya town.
Home to close-knit fishing communities, the town holds a remarkable Dutch Fort , which you can tour with a member of the Sri Lankan Navy, which has a base just beyond the fort. Dating back to 1676, the fort's interior has been well preserved, with storerooms, thick ramparts, bastions and even secret tunnels leading to the ocean , and a nearby Dutch-era church that’s also well worth a visit.
This part of Sri Lanka also offers incredible whale and dolphin-spotting opportunities, with great pods of spinner dolphins being sighted from November to March, while November and April are typically the best months for spotting majestic blue whales. Just across the water sits Wilpattu National Park , Sri Lanka’s largest, offering an alternative to the more heavily visited Yala National Park . It’s around a 45-minute boat journey away, with explorers often met with leopard and sloth bear sightings.
For lunch, head south from Kalpitiya town to Luna Palm , a low-key spot serving freshly prepared, well-priced meals, or try Lagoonies Cafe , right next to Kite Buddies, a great option for coffee , snacks and a spot of surfer watching. Further north, along the lagoon edge, Sethawadi Cafe is one of the best places in the region for breakfast , lunch or dinner, with tasty dishes including fish tacos and hot butter cuttlefish, served by the friendliest staff around. For sundowners, head to rooftop-terrace Bray Bar , from where the lagoon views are memorable, and drinks rival those in Colombo’s best bars.
With many hostels and easy-going lodgings, there’s no shortage of places to bed down in Kalpitiya, but for more luxurious surroundings, Villa Sethawadi is the only place you need to know. Fabulously peaceful and set around a coconut palm-dappled swimming pool, the boutique hotel offers a handful of private lagoon and garden chalets as well as two-bedroom villas. Staff are charming, attending to lunch orders, keeping bedrooms flawless and chatting with guests like they are long-lost friends.
There are complimentary kayaks available for anyone wanting to take to the lagoon, which sits footsteps away, and daily yoga classes at the on-site shala. Villa Sethawadi also operates its very own kitesurfing school from the edge of the property, which attracts a slightly more mature crowd, spanning all abilities. For first-timers to kitesurfing , the school, run by Canadian Matt Kwantes, and the hotel, offer a unique blend of more refined luxury and on-water exhilaration, away from the backpacker crowds.
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